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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.